Pasteur, who greatly improved modern winemaking with his microbiology research, grew up in Arbois, the capital of Jura’s winegrowing country. Though its is located next to the age-old Jura mountain range and is not known for its exotic climate, Jura and the mountainous Savoie produce excellent red and white wines. Consumed in France for the most part, these wines are produced in small quantities on the lands with the best sun exposure. Some years, the continental climate provides long, dry falls that allow off-dry and sweet wines to be produced. Made by natural concentration of the grape sugars, these are quite rare.
Mountain vineyards don’t mind the snow, as long as there is enough sunshine to ripen the grapes to perfection. In Savoie and Jura, two continental regions in eastern France, the climate is quite harsh in winter, yet the summers are generous, with long sunny autumns. When planted in the right soils, the vineyards soak up the sunlight and the weather conditions favor their growth. A far cry from the huge expanses of vineyards found in the Southwest, here the vineyards must be adapted to the climate. They are planted only where the maximum sunlight and heat can be obtained and thus occupy those south and southwest facing hills that are steep enough to maximize sun exposure. Winegrowers have learned over the centuries to recognize the subtleties of the region’s microclimates. .
Here winemakers often have other jobs as well. Winemaking is important here, but raising livestock and perfecting one’s ski technique are also important activities in the region. With their strong accents, the people of Jura and Savoie have a rough, hardy character that matches their climate, but their cuisine, especially the cheeses of Comté and Beaufort, complements wine perfectly. The region’s array of reds, whites, rosés and even the sweet Vins Jaunes do much to raise spirits and facilitate camaraderie. Behind the gruff exterior of the mountain people there is always an open doorway welcoming visitors to a warm household that revolves around the kitchen.
The vineyards of Jura and Savoie are a mosaic of microterroirs, not always adjacent to one another, but always located in the most ideal locations for grape growing. In the Jura, these are marly limestone soils for the whites and clay-limestone soils which are strung along 80 km of hills. In Savoie, the vineyards are located in the valleys or the first foothills of the Alps. Here also, the soils are primarily clay-limestone, and the vineyards are planted with southeastern or southwestern exposure to best absorb the energy of the sun.